Tailormade tour Follow the Way of St James Spanish fly-drive tour Spain

Collect your hire car in Bilbao and drive south towards Pamplona and the start of the Camino pilgrimage route.

Pamplona is an ancient fortress city known for its annual festival in July in honour of San Fermín, which includes the famous ‘running of the bulls’. Founded by the Romans, but with much mediaeval heritage, the city is rich in interesting history. The Fortress, which forms an impressively geometric star shape on the open green space which has now been surrounded by more modern development, still stands almost in its entirety. Now idyllically coated with grass, its scale and depth is still visible in the walkways, high walls, and arches. It is believed to be one of the best-preserved military structures in Spain. The shape of the old walls and fortress still define the city today. Ancient walls and platforms emerge from underneath tall contemporary buildings. Have lunch in a local restaurant to try the local tapas: ‘pintxos’. If time permits, drive out to the nearby town of Sangüesa, which retains much of its original mediaeval design, or venture into the Basque Pyrenees. The Parque Natural Urbasa Andia is one of the most beautiful natural sights of the area, punctuated by waterfalls, pools, and caves with stalactites, though it is mostly known for the bright azure hue of its flowing waters. Also worth a visit are the Baroque Palacio del Gobierno de Navarra, with its white architrave reminiscent of ancient Greek design, and the Museo de Navarra, which exhibits artefacts dating back to Prehistoric Navarre, paintings by Goya, a Mozarabic chest, and a 1st century Roman mosaic. In the evening dine in the fantastic dining room of the Palacio Guendulain, on signature dishes from Castile and La Mancha and the Cinco Villas region, made from the best local ingredients, including Manchego cheese, local meats, and fish.

Today, you start making your way along the pilgrimage route in earnest. Continue your way along the Camino towards Burgos, travelling via Puente la Reina, Estella, Logroño, and Santo Domingo de la Calzada - all traditional stops on the way. Your journey should only take about two hours through undulating countryside, and past vineyards and pretty villages with mediaeval castles and Romanesque churches. You might want to stop off along the way in the area around Logroño, which is home to La Rioja wine. Local wineries will be able to give you atmospheric and traditional wine tasting opportunities. Your hotel in Burgos is the NH Collection Palacio de Burgos, formerly the NH Palacio de la Merced, a four-star hotel from which you can easily walk to the breath-taking Gothic cathedral and the city’s historic quarter.

Spend the day exploring the former capital of Castile y León. Noted for its extremes in temperature, the area straddles the banks of the Arlanzón River and is home to a mighty Gothic cathedral which houses the tomb of El Cid, who was born just north of the city. This cathedral reputedly displays the entire history of Gothic art in its architecture and unique collections within, which include stained glass, paintings, and tombs. Home to many museums and galleries, you may choose to visit the hugely insightful and modern Museo de la Evolución Humana, which traces in great detail, innovation, and sensitivity, the evolution of man. Just outside of the city is the Abbey of Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas. This monastery of Cistercian nuns is comprised of a church, monastery, and nuns’ premises. The Arabic design on the sacristy door dates from the 12th century and is in direct and brilliant contrast with the rest of the architecture, especially the Chapter Room, which is particularly austere. Take dinner one night at your hotel, tasting the speciality squid, artichokes, and ham, and then at the El Lagar de Isilla restaurant in Burgos the next, which serves elegant locally sourced dishes.

Continue westwards through the pastures that cover the vast plateau towards León, where you will stay at its historic Parador hotel, within walking distance of the city’s historic centre. León is an attractive mediaeval walled city and a popular stop for pilgrims. The NH Collection is situated on the Plaza Mayor, surrounded by numerous bars and restaurants and just 50m from the Gothic Cathedral. One of Leon’s most important sites is the Convent of San Marcos, which was once a hospital for those travelling to Santiago de Compostela. Behind its Plateresque-style façade, it still houses some original Jacobean medallions, as well as other interesting period features. The building houses Leon’s Parador hotel which is closed for long term renovations between 2018 and 2020, however the exterior façade can still be seen.

Continue your tour of León in the old town, winding your way down the one-way streets into arcaded squares akin to those in Venice, marvelling at the historic houses as you pass. The impressive 13th century cathedral, often called The House of Light, is renowned for the 1,200 square feet of glass that is integrated into the stone walls, which is radiantly colourful and casts a golden glow on the cavernous interior of the cathedral. The breath-taking sight of this building from the inside is kept a secret from passers-by by its relatively unremarkable exterior; yet, when in León a visit seems necessary. Be aware that mass is held regularly, and though this service is sure to be exceptionally moving, the cathedral is strictly closed to tourists at these times. León also has a Royal Pantheon, housing exceptional frescoes from the 12th century, and a number of lively tapas bars perfect for a lunchtime or afternoon snack. Next door to the Royal Pantheon is the Basilica of San Isidoro, built into the old town walls on the site of a Roman Temple of Mercury. The church that stands there today was built in the 11th century and provided the blueprint for all other Romanesque churches in the north of Spain. Its beautifully painted ceiling curves are supported by short, wide Corinthian pillars, which serve to cast your attention upwards, to appreciate the colour. Track down Gaudi’s Casa de los Botines. This building is somewhat reserved in comparison to Gaudi’s other works, but still has the soft, rounded, surreal aspect we have come to associate with the architect, as well as tall, thin turrets. Just southwest of León is Astorga, home of Gaudi’s fairy-tale Episcopal Palace. The arched windows, unusual hue of the stone, narrow turrets, and pointed blue-black roofs are a marvel to behold, and well-worth the short trip. Driving south will bring you to La Bañeza, a small, picturesque town defined by its colourful townhouses with uniquely decorated windows, and the irregular shapes of its open squares. Back in León, the MUSAC contemporary art museum aims to take a revolutionary outlook on modern works, necessitating its wildly experimental and challenging exhibitions. Spend your evenings back at the Parador hotel, wandering around the cloister, chapter house, and library, before dining on the elegant cuisine in the restaurant.

Drive westwards over gentle hills, travelling past the interesting walled town of Astorga as well as Ponferrada, whose imposing castle was built to protect the pilgrims. Perhaps stop off at Las Médulas en route. These craggy red cliffs mark not only a phenomenal site of natural beauty, but the site of an ancient Roman gold mine, the tunnels of which can still be explored. It is here that you leave the pilgrimage route, heading instead to the wooded mountains of Galicia where you will stay at the remarkable Parador de Santo Estevo for two nights, located within a former monastery overlooking the River Sil. Enveloped in idyllic seclusion, seize the opportunity to relax in the Spanish sun and appreciate the fantastically varied local landscape. Take a relaxing walk along the river or between the trees, or simply sit reading in one of the monastery’s courtyards, with the magnificence of this ancient building rising around you.

Today provides an excellent chance to hike through the forests and to enjoy local delicacies such as cinnamon-topped sponge cake. If you do wish to explore the more built-up parts of the local area, we would recommend the city of Ourense, situated thirty-five minutes southwest of Santo Estevo. This city has many intriguing and enchanting secrets to uncover. Its narrow streets, lined with pretty buildings, seem to tumble out of one another, revealing more and more of the maze as you navigate your way in. Its peaceful arcaded squares are very typically Spanish, while closer to the riverside the streets begin to widen, opening the view out onto the many bridges, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Dotted around the city are several places to enjoy the benefits of the hot springs and escape the weather. You may also wish to visit the serene cathedral, to see the unique column capitals, and textbook Romanesque style which is infiltrated around the doorways by the emerging Gothic. Virtually untouched by commercial tourism, Ourense is the perfect mid-point between the natural seclusion of Santo Estevo and the larger, busier towns of Spain, and provides an excellent day of relaxing activities for the earnest explorer. Back at your hotel, make the most of the spa facilities, and dine on Galician cuisine in the Restaurante Dos Abades.

Set off on the final leg of your journey through rolling green countryside towards Santiago de Compostela. Check in to the Parador Hotel, a former Royal Hospital, and arguably the most luxurious of all the hotels on this tour, where you will spend two nights. Discover the city’s sights from this base, conveniently located just a few steps away from the elaborately decorated cathedral, the final resting place of Saint James the Apostle, and the final destination for thousands of pilgrims.

You will have plenty of time to visit the religious highlights, explore the compact old quarter within its mediaeval walls, and sample Galicia’s marvellous cuisine. The Romanesque cathedral was begun in the 11th century, but not completed until the 13th, with a wealth of decorative and iconographic exterior detail added in the early 18th century in the Baroque style. The Plateresque cloister is one of the most important in Spain, with annex rooms which include the library, Chapter Room, and the Chapel of Relics, which houses a series of wonderfully ornate golden pieces. The Ceremonial room has a grandiose arched ceiling and corbels that depict a royal banquet. The second most popular sight in Santiago de Compostela is the Mercado de Abastos, a very traditional Spanish food market. If possible, see this market on a Thursday or Saturday, as this is when the most local producers set up shop. However, on any day, this is an excellent place to pick up some of the local cheeses, crafts, flowers, and wines. Consider driving up to the Rías Baixas inlets to see the stunning scenery and sample the exquisite shellfish and white wine. The neighbouring hilly green landscape is dotted with the undulating roofs of Pazos, or ancient homes, Hórreos, or stone granaries, and forts, monasteries, and acropolises. Back in Santiago de Compostela, the focus on the outstanding natural landscape continues in the green parks and gardens that punctuate the city. Perhaps partake in a sport such as hiking, golf, or fishing. If you plan this holiday for the summer months, there is sure to be some sort of cultural celebration unfolding in the city centre, from music, film, and theatre, to exhibitions and festivals. In the evenings, dine on the regional specialities with sensational views of the cathedral’s breath-taking front façade: small crabs, barnacles, angler fish stew, Galician pork, beef, and the regional wines, Monterrei, Ribeiro, Rías Baixas and Valdeorras.

End your holiday by dropping your hire-car off at Santiago de Compostela airport and embarking your flight back to London.