So dear to both French and Dutch hearts that neither colonial power could bear to give it up, St Martin – or St Maarten to the Dutch – is the only one of more than 7,000 Caribbean islands that ended up being shared by two nations. It is easy to see why: bone-white beaches lapped by cobalt shallows, and classical conical peaks rising out of the sea – it’s a stunning island. Today, St Martin has lost none of the physical beauty that made it such a coveted prize, although with plenty of flat areas, it is more developed than most of its Caribbean cousins. In fact, although boasting more than 40 beautiful beaches, as well as a string of superb resorts to rival any in the region, St Martin’s unique charm today lies in its dual-identity: two colonial Carib nations for the price of one, with the whole very greater than the sum of its parts.
At times, the two sides seem almost to exaggerate their personalities, so keen is the rivalry between them. If that sounds tense, it’s not: this is a friendly rivalry, with both sides proud of their colonial roots: the French with their food that could transport you back to a top Paris restaurant, the Dutch with their hedonistic beach bars and nightlife.
Facts
Capital
Margiot (French side) and Philipsburg (Dutch side)
Airport
Juliana (in Dutch St Maarten)
Size
20 sq miles (French part) and 17 sq miles (Dutch part)
Currency
US$ (£1=$1.61) and Euros (£1=1.17 Euros)
Population
35,000 on French side; 38,000 on Dutch side
Average temperature
about 27 degrees Centigrade. July through October sees heat, humidity and, often, hurricanes; the best times to visit St-Martin are November to early December and May to June.
Local highlights
Gourmet restaurants on the French-side, particularly in Grand Case and Marigot Bay; Creole cuisine in beach shacks and local cafes; zouk music, a kind of Creole music unique to the French Caribbean; Carnival at the beginning of Lent (taking place over Easter on the Dutch side); 40-plus beaches; fantastic beach bars, particularly on Friar’s Bay, with great full-moon parties; local speciality of sticky ribs and a beachside lolo shack; catamaran trips to smaller satellite islands such as Ilet Pinel, Tintamarre or Prickly Pear all the way out near Anguilla; Sunset Beach Bar on Maho beach at the end of the airport runway, not for the faint-hearted (bikini contests a regular feature), but a real St Maarten’s institution; the Oyster Pond, a quiet half-French, half-Dutch harbour in the east of the island; historic towns of Philipsburg (Dutch side capital) and Margiot (French side); diving Wreck Alley, including a 200-year old British frigate.
Getting out and about
Although the island is divided into two separate land claims, there are no official borders, so you can travel to both parts quite freely. Buses are by far the cheapest method of transportation, but with no set schedules, it’s a bit hit and miss. Few official bus stops, so you need to flag them down. Ttaxis are good for short distances, hire cars better if you want to explore the island further. You can also take trips by boat and plane from St Martin to the nearby islands of Anguilla, St Barts, Saba and Statia.
Travel arrangements
Access to St Martins is via Paris with Air France, with a flight time of about 9 hours. St Martins can also be reached via Antigua, flying on with LIAT (about 35 minutes). Flying time London to Antigua is approximately 8 hours. British Airways and Virgin have direct flights to Antigua. BMI flies from Manchester.