Luxury tropical island holidays to Nevis

Once hailed as the ‘Queen of the Caribbees’, Nevis is the modern-day underdog of the Caribbean. Physically, it is a shrunk-in-the-wash version of any other neighbouring island, yet its atmosphere offers so much more. Encapsulated within its meagre 36 square miles is a storehouse of old-world charm, exquisite wildlife and genuine hospitality. ‘Queen of the Caribees’ indeed.

A mere pinprick in the spray of islands that litter the Caribbean Sea, Nevis occupies a position in the inner arc of the Leeward Islands archipelago, a crumb amongst the ‘big players’ of the Caribbean. By comparison to its better-known neighbours, much of Nevis’ charm is intertwined with its diminutive size and relative anonymity, which has helped the island retain its effusive cultural identity. Nevis cannot be disregarded as an insignificant side note in the spectrum of illustrious Caribbean haunts, and instilled within this meagre landmass is enough character to rival them all.

Separated from neighbouring St Kitts by a slender two-mile channel aptly named ‘The Narrows’, Nevis is dominated by Nevis Peak, a mountainous mound carpeted with tropical jungle and crawling with life. This is the epicentre of a conical-shaped island, and its dramatic presence is impossible to escape, its summit oft obscured by cotton candy flourishes of cloud. Adventure-seekers can scale its height (3,232 ft) in guided hikes and, should the clouds part as you reach the top, the reward will be uninterrupted views of Nevis, the Atlantic and the surrounding chain of Leeward Islands. En route, you would be unlucky to miss the mischievous African green vervet monkeys, originally brought to the island as pets over 200 years ago, before their Houdini-like skills for escape led to the accidental establishment of a thriving wild population.

Because of Nevis Peak’s protrusion from the heart of the island, travel is limited to a single main road that roughly follows the north, east and west coasts; this is the pulsing artery that delivers life to the remotest corners of Nevis. Use this lifeline to visit Nevis’ manmade landmarks, which provide a fascinating insight into an era gone by. This history lies in Nevis’ former fame for one sweet export: sugar. View the crumbling Great Houses and plantations of the late 17th and early 18th centuries, whose atmosphere hark back to that heyday of production before the crippling post-1800s decline. Other architectural delights can be seen in Charlestown; the capital of St Kitts and Nevis, its quaint buildings predominantly date back to the 18th century, when a ruinous earthquake necessitated a laborious rebuild. The result was a patchwork of wooden-framed second floors deposited upon pre-existent ground floor foundations made from stone. Step back in time in Charlestown, embrace the arts and crafts focus that is apparent here and enjoy the overwhelming warmth and charm of all its inhabitants.

Thanks to its tropical climate, Nevis experiences little variation from month-to-month, yet its exposure to the Atlantic means it is fanned by persistent trade winds off the ocean. While there is surf on the east coast, beachgoers can also visit the more mellow beaches of the northern and western shores, which take on a faintly-tinted hue. The sand here is infused with white and pink hues as well as spattering of black volcanic flecks as a result of ancient volcanic activity and the gentle erosion of coral reefs. The beaches of the south are characterised by even darker, reddish sand. Delve beneath the waters and a whole other world opens up, with stunning seascapes inhabited by a microcosm of vibrant underwater species such as snappers, angelfish chubs, jacks barracuda, stingrays and even sea turtles.

Both over-water and under-water, Nevis is a miniature island paradise and an off the beaten track Caribbean enigma, whose mysteries are certainly worth discovering. This is a tiny island with a powerful punch.