The south-west coast of Sri Lanka has long been a popular holiday destination for tropical sun, sea and sand. It offers wonderful beaches and a variety of hotels and guests houses to choose from, with the added attraction of having local life and interesting places to see and things to do nearby. What’s more, facing directly west to the Indian Ocean, visitors are treated to the most magical sunset views. Dining out options and nightclubs are mostly at the hotels, with Bentota/Beruwela providing the broadest range, whilst water sports activities are offered mainly at Bentota/Beruwela and Hikkaduwa. This 100-kilometre coastline between the cities of Colombo and Galle is blessed with miles of palm-fringed golden beaches interspersed with harbours, inlets, mangrove-lined rivers and lagoons. Hotels of every size and quality vie with private villas, coconut plantations and fishing villages for a space on the beachfront and those priceless Indian Ocean views. In the small towns and villages that straddle the main trunk road and railway line, Buddhist temples sit alongside churches and mosques whilst livelihoods are gained through a mix of tourism, trading and fishing, farming and skilled crafts. It is fascinating to stroll along the beach and watch the fishermen preparing to launch their brightly-painted boats, later seeing them return with their catch. A venture into the hinterland reveals a world of lush plantations, tropical forests and lagoons. The rural villages are often known for a particular skill such as furniture or mask-making and weaving using dyed reed.
Local highlights
Wadduwa: Wadduwa is a village on the coast about 35km south of Colombo. It has golden sand beaches lined with coconut plantations, small fishing communities, private villas and a few hotels. It is famous for its rich cultivation of coconut palms and as a major producer of toddy and vinegar. The name Wadduwa is said to originate from the Sinhalese words ‘veda dooya’ meaning land of the native doctors. The shops, sights and Royal Golf course of Colombo are accessible within an hour.
Bentota and Beruwela: Bentota is a well-established, planned tourist resort with mid to upper class resort hotels. It is best known for its long stretches of sandy, palm-fringed beach. The sea is generally calm between December and April, the most popular tourist season, though all the hotels we feature have their own swimming pool (in varying sizes) for swimming. There are water sports facilities on the Bentota Ganga (river) with water-skiing, jet-skiing, surfing, windsurfing and sailing, deep-sea fishing and wreck or reef diving (PADI qualified instructors available). Boat trips on the river are increasingly popular; take a raft to enjoy the silence of the mangrove swamps. The village is a sleepy and relaxed mix of houses, villas and resort hotels set in lush tropical surroundings, with some shops, local restaurants and a handicraft centre on the roadside. Neighbouring Aluthgama across the river has more shops and a thriving marketplace. The port of Beruwela also borders Bentota on the northern side of the river. The first Arab traders to settle on the island arrived here many centuries ago, though now it is better known as a package-style tourist resort with mostly lower to mid range hotels on the beach or riverfront. A short distance inland, the landscaped gardens of Brief (the home of Bevis Bawa) are worth a visit, especially for garden lovers.
Sinharaja Rainforest (inland):Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1989, because of its international significance, Sinharaja is the only large undisturbed rainforest left in Sri Lanka where over 800 of the island’s endemic species of flora and fauna can be found. Rising from 300 to 1170 metres in altitude, it is humid (90%) with dense canopy, cicadas and cascading rivers and awesomely tall trees. Inevitably, there are plenty of leeches too. There are set walking paths and a national park warden will accompany you throughout. The north entrance to Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve is between 2 and 3 hours drive from any of the villages/hotels along the south- west coast (the last part is by jeep along a very bumpy track!)
Between Bentota and Galle: There are several sea turtle hatcheries south of Bentota, including the Kosgoda hatchery (open daily) where the eggs are protected until they hatch. Just south of this lies the village of Ahungalla with its sandy shoreline, followed by Balapitiya where the Madu river enters the sea. Before it does so, the river opens out into a wide river lagoon with 15 islands and many mangrove islets, constituting a fascinating and complex coastal wetland ecosystem – boat trips can be arranged. Ambalangoda is regarded as the centre for mask making in Sri Lanka; you can watch craftsmen transform blocks of wood into exotic and colourful masks, traditionally used in dances, theatre and healing rituals. Shortly before the historic city of Galle on the south-west tip, you come to the lively tourist resort of Hikkaduwa, with its restaurants, guest houses and shops catering mainly to lower budgets and water sports enthusiasts. Its coral reef is a good place for viewing reef fish in shallow waters, by snorkelling or from a glass-bottomed boat. Divers can explore the reefs and shipwrecks in deeper waters and there are some diving schools with ‘PADI’ qualified diving instructors. The breakwaters at Hikkaduwa are popular with surfers too.
Madu Ganga River and Lagoon: Before the Madu Ganga river enters the sea at Balapitiya, it opens out into a wide river lagoon with 15 islands and many mangrove islets, constituting a complex coastal wetland ecosystem. This area, known as the Madu Ganga Wetlands, is home to pristine mangrove forests and over 300 species of plants and 245 species of animals. It is a fascinating place to explore by boat, not only for its ecological significance but for its beauty and for the local life of the islands and shores. Boat trips will more than likely reveal small villages, prawn farms, sand mines as well as intriguing flora, fauna and wildlife.
Places to Stay in South-Western Sri Lanka. Large, 5-star luxury resort hotels on the beachfront:Blue Waters Wadduwa - a stylish modern hotel designed by Bawa in the late 1990s, set amidst coconut palms, with a delightful spa.
Vivanta by Taj Bentota - offering a range of accommodation, facilities and services according to the high standards of the Indian Taj Group, including the divine Jiva Spa. Heritance Ahungalla - a superb hotel designed by Bawa with extensive facilities and services including succulent cuisine, crèche, nightclub, spa and elephant rides along the beach. For boutique luxury and pure indulgence on the beachfront:Serene Pavilions in Wadduwa - an exclusive boutique hotel offering the ultimate in luxury, privacy and indulgence. Saman Villas - a small luxury resort of the highest standard, with 27 suites, some with private pool, and Sahana Spa. In a magnificent position perched on a rocky headland.
For luxury boutique:
Reef in Wadduwa - an intimate boutique hotel with just 7 luxurious suites set in tropical gardens facing the beach, and enticing spa treatments. Villa Bentota and Club Villa - two neighbouring boutique hotels in villas set back a little from the wonderful beach and the railway line runs in front of their gardens (which actually adds to the experience!) The Villa Bentota is designer-chic with quirky Paradise Road interiors whilst Club Villa is lower key yet charming, with set menus. Aditya Resort - a lavish, designer-chic boutique hotel, with 12 garden rooms and stunning balcony suites with ocean views. A gate leads from the garden directly onto a sandy beach.
Hidden Gems: River House, Balapitiya – a luxurious boutique villa with 5 suites and a team of housekeeping and catering staff. In a beautiful riverside setting. Tranquil and intimate. Lunuganga Estate - a little inland from Bentota, once the beloved country residence of the renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa. Beautiful landscapes, tranquil and a rare insight into the psyche of an architectural genius. A unique experience.
Serviced villas by the beach: Sri Villas - ideal for small parties, Sri Villas has three delightful 2 or 3-bedroom serviced villas facing the beach at Induruwa, south of Bentota.
All of the above properties (except Lunuganga) have a swimming pool.
Wellbeing – Spa & Ayurveda: All the above luxury resort and luxury boutique hotels offer their own Spa facilities. Saman Villas and Heritance Ahungalla also offer pre-bookable 1, 3 or 5 day spa packages. For serious Ayurveda health treatment programmes lasting two weeks, we recommend the Barberyn Reef Ayurveda Resort in Beruwela (please see our Wellbeing section).
Climate: The south-western part of Sri Lanka is the wet tropical zone. It is warm and humid all year round. Sea breezes make the coast a little cooler. The sunny, dry season is between November and March with average temperatures at around 26C. The south-west monsoon brings intermittent torrential rain, winds and rough seas, normally in May, June and July, with temperatures of up to 32C.There is also changeable weather during September and October. Humidity fluctuates between 70% in the day and 90% at night, which can be oppressive in built up areas.
Getting out and about
In addition to relaxing on the beach, there are plenty of other things to see and do in this region. In and around Wadduwa: Fishing life along the coast; Long beach walks; Kalutara – famous for its historic Bo tree, grown from a sapling of the Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura, and Gangatilaka Vihara Temple - the only Buddhist shrine in the world which is hollow; Kalu Ganga (river) and Bolgoda lake; Richmond Castle – a 19th century spice plantation mansion, built for a regional Governor resembling an Indian Maharaja’s palace design, now open to the public. In and around Bentota/Beruwela: Watersports at Bentota/Beruwela on the Bentota river (there is a well-equipped centre offering a range of motorised and non-motorised water sports, including diving); Bentota river boat trip (mangroves); Long beach walks; Brief Garden – home and landscaped gardens created by Bevis Bawa, the artist brother of Geoffrey Bawa. Behind a bamboo hedge lie walled gardens, bowers, lawns, sculptures and a Japanese garden; Lunuganga Estate – the home of celebrated Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa; Aluthgama – shops and market; Galapita Vihara Buddhist Temple - 12th century, 5 km upriver.
Inland: Singharaja Rainforest; Plantations, farming and craft villages. Between Bentota and Galle: Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery; Buddhist Temples – e.g. Kumarakanda Vihara; Balapitiya –boat trips on Madu Ganga river and lagoon – birdlife, water monitors, islands; Mask carving and painting in Ambalangoda; Moonstone quarry in Meetyagoda; Beach walks; Hikkaduwa - tourist shops and restaurants, lower budget; Fishing trips, Snorkelling and scuba diving, waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing and sailing – at Hikkaduwa (12 km from Galle).
Wherever you stay on the south-west coast, day excursions can be made to historic Galle, Buddhist temples, Sinharaja Rainforest, Ambalangoda mask factory, the Kosgoda turtle hatchery. The water sports facilities at Bentota/Beruwela (or Hikkaduwa) are within an hour’s drive from any of the hotels.
Driving Distances: Colombo International Airport to Wadduwa – 1.5 to 2 hours (56 km), Colombo International Airport to Bentota – 2 ½ to 3 hours (90 km), Colombo International Airport to Galle – 3 hours (150 km), Wadduwa to Kandy – 4 hours, Bentota to Kandy – 4.5 hours (180 km), Colombo to Wadduwa – 45 mins to 1 hour (30 km).