Popularly known as the High Tea Country, the temperate highlands of southern central Sri Lanka are wonderfully scenic with stunning mountain and valley vistas almost everywhere you go, and of course, often carpeted in tea bushes. As you peer over the brow onto tea-clad valleys it is like dropping into something magical, the soft green, contoured slopes so pleasing to the eye. Thanks to the multitude of micro-climates, the landscape is constantly changing and it is an incredibly beautiful mountain area, worth visiting for the scenery as well as the tea culture. It is also Sri Lanka’s heartland for market gardens and dairy products; endless rows of vegetables and strawberries hug the slopes, vying for space with the tea bushes. The area is awash with colourful flowers according to the time of year; acacia, grevillia, poinsettia and the deep-blue morning glory flower in June. The colonials introduced non-indigenous flowering plants and trees, though pines in particular are now being removed in an effort to allow indigenous natural habitats to return.
Kandy: This royal capital of the hill country is a UNESCO world heritage site, built beside a placid lake surrounded by hills. Thanks to these natural fortifications, the Kandyan kingdom held out against colonial invaders for centuries. It was the last stronghold of the Sinhalese Kings during the Portuguese, Dutch and British rule and finally ceded to the British in 1815 after an agreement. To the Buddhists of Sri Lanka and the World, Kandy is one of the most sacred sites as it is the home of the “Dalada Maligawa” - Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha. This tooth of the Lord Buddha is said to have been brought from India in the third century. There are three daily ceremonies of homage by white-robed pilgrims. The Temple of the Tooth lies within the Royal Palace complex where you will also find “Palle Wasala” where the Queens stayed, now used as the National Museum; the Audience Hall and a museum dedicated to the famous elephant, Raja. The Royal Bathing Pavilion (“Ulpenge”) is by the lake and the royal summerhouse is on “Kiri Samudraya” (milk white ocean) island in the centre of the lake. Also in central Kandy, British legacies remain in the form of a few grand old buildings and hotels, St Paul’s Church and Royal Palace Park. There is a lively market and a plethora of shops, gem showrooms and arts & crafts workshops specialising in brassware, lacquer ware and woodcarving. It is possible to walk most of the way around the lake (rather noisy because the main road runs around the lake as well). This is certainly a thriving cultural capital with its universities and centres for Buddhist learning and the arts. There are several nightly cultural shows that showcase traditional Kandyan drumming, music and dance and the city boasts a fine international cricket stadium.
Local highlights
Nearby Kandy
Peradeniya Botanical Gardens: Sri Lanka’s largest and finest gardens covering almost 150 acres, established as a pleasure garden for Kandyan nobility then transformed into botanic gardens by the British in 1821. Highlights are the huge Javan Fig, the orchid house, venerable palms such as talipot, coco de mer, and Sal (cannon ball) trees, bamboo, troupes of macaque monkeys and fruit bats.
Pinnawela: 60 km from Colombo near the road to Kandy, there is a government-run elephant orphanage where abandoned or injured elephants are reared. They live in a large enclosed area and twice a day, morning and afternoon, they are fed and herded to the river for bathing. There may be an element of a zoo about Pinnawela, and there has been some criticism of its working practices, but it does offer the best chance to get close to these magnificent animals. The number of elephants has increased to more than 65 now, with more then 25 babies born as a result of the captive breeding programme.
Buddhist Temples: Embekke Devale, Lankatilake, Gadaladeniya are three 14th century temples close to each other about 10 kms west of Kandy. Gadaladeniya stone temple, with its lacquered doors and wall murals is a must see. Embekke temple has intricate carvings. The Gangarama Viharaya monastery and Degaldoruwa rock temple, with beautiful murals, lie to the east of Kandy.
Victoria Golf course: An 18-hole par73 championship course, designed by Donald Steel, in a truly stunning setting of mountains, forests and Victoria Reservoir, about 1 hour drive east of Kandy (see our Active section).
Knuckles Mountain range: Scenic drives through largely unspoilt wilderness, north-east of Kandy, a contrasting world of steep hills, hidden valleys, dense forest, dry plains and dramatic drops. Some walking is possible, though it is hot during the day. Highlights are Corbet’s Gap and Little World’s End. On the eastern edge of the Knuckles Range lies the spiritual Rajamaha dagoba at Mahiyangana.
Hantana Tea Museum: The Ceylon Tea museum provides an interesting tea experience, housing nostalgic memorabilia and machinery in a renovated tea factory on Hantana estate, just outside Kandy. Nature lovers can also enjoy a trek through jungle and tea plantations here, amidst picturesque hill scenery.
Kitulgala and the Kelani River (West Hill Country): Coming from Kandy or the Tea Country, the drive descending down to the Kelani valley is a dramatic experience with sharp bends, leading you back to the tropics and lush forests all around. Kitulgala is hot, humid and wet. This is a pleasant stop for lunch by the river where Bridge over the River Kwai was filmed. (2 hours drive from Nuwara Eliya, 1.5 hours from Ceylon Tea Trails or Kandy, 3 hours from Wadduwa),
White Water Rafting along the Kelani river, Sri Lanka’s most popular river for white water rafting. The rapids are Grade 2-3 and rafts travel about 7 km down river near Kitulgala amidst stunning tropical scenery. The water flow not only depends on rainfall levels but also on whether dam sluices are closed further up river or not, so conditions can only be confirmed at short notice. Water levels are usually patchy from January to March. The best time of year for white water rafting on the Kelani river is April to December. You can also enjoy walking/birdwatching in the Kelani Forest Reserve – you have to cross the river by dug-out canoe, standing up! Visit Belilena Caves – reached by 4-wheel drive or mountain bike. Most people visit Kitulgala en route to or from the hills or as a day excursion, though it can be a fascinating one or two night stay for the more adventurous. For this, we recommend the Plantation Hotel, a charming guest house by the river.
High Tea Country.
The Tea Experience: A visit to a tea factory will explain the tea production process and you can watch the tea-pluckers work their way along the tea bushes, deftly plucking the tips. These visits can be arranged en route or to a factory close to where you are staying – there are estates literally everywhere and many open their doors to visitors, giving tours and a chance to sample and purchase the various teas. The road from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya is lined with picturesque tea-clad hills and is a key artery to numerous tea factories and estates. The Loolecondera plantation is where the first ever crop of Ceylon tea was planted by pioneer James Taylor.
The tea-growing districts in the highlands are: Kandy - the ‘low’ hill region at 2,500 feet or above to the north Nuwara Eliya - the highest area that produces the finest teas at 6000 feet or above
Dimbula and Dickoya - west central mountains - at 3,500 feet or above
Uva - located east of Dimbula at 2,800 feet or above
The Nuwara Eliya district is considered to produce the finest black Ceylon tea.
The Boganantalawa Valley: In the 1870s, Scottish planters discovered the hidden Boganantalawa Valley and proceeded to clear around 4,000 hectares of forest to make way for tea bushes. The Boganantalawa Planters Club in Dickoya, Maskeliya Cricket Club, the Aldie Arms pub and the tea estate bungalows are legacies of this period of Sri Lanka’s heritage. A tale or two can also be revealed at the picturesque Warleigh Church, perched over a fan of tea bushes overlooking Castlereagh Reservoir. 80% of the tea in Boganantalawa is of Chinese origin (from an area called Tientsin), the rest is Indian. In the Norwood area, they produce Udawatta tea, and Ranwatta, a golden pick-me-up tea that can be drunk at any time of day.
Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak): At 2,243 metres above sea level, this rugged summit is claimed to be the imprint of the Buddha’s footprint. Pilgrims of all four Sri Lankan faiths make the ascent on foot to the peak, for different reasons, though it has been an essentially Buddhist place of worship for over a thousand years. The peak is clouded over for most of the year, though clear weather is more likely between December and March, in the early morning. Start walking in the middle of the night to arrive at the summit for sunrise. This is a strenuous 3-hour (plus) climb on a well marked path, mostly steps. Ceylon Tea Trails is our nearest recommended accommodation to Adam’s Peak, roughly 1 hour’s drive from the start of the walk.
Nuwara Eliya.
The ‘Little England’ of Sri Lanka is set against beautiful backdrops of mountains, valleys, waterfalls and tea plantations. It is supposed to be one of the coolest places in the island, but it is really just like an English spring day (16-20C), although the temperature does drop at night (can be around 10C). It rains a lot here too. All around Nuwara Eliya you will see evidence of the British influence, houses like country cottages or Queen Ann style mansions. There is a lake and a scenic 18-hole golf course complete with quaint Clubhouse. The Victoria Park, in the middle of the town, is good for a stroll and for birding, as you sometimes see rare birds. Nuwara Eliya is famous for its trotting horse races, held at different times of year but the big event is in April. Catch the caretaker at the race course in a good mood and he may show you around the turf club and stables – a real time warp! Have lunch or dinner at The Hill Club if you want to step back in time to British colonial days. Seasons may be absent elsewhere in Sri Lanka, but here you can read them by the flowers, which bloom in the spring (March to May) and the fall (August and September). These are the “seasons” when low-country folk flock to Nuwara Eliya to escape the sea level heat and humidity. To the north of the Nuwara Eliya town rises Pidurutalagala, the highest mountain in Sri Lanka, its peak at 2,524m above sea level.
Around Ambewela
Heading south from Nuwara Eliya you come to Hakgala Botanical Gardens and a minor road climbing to Ambewela. The scenery is one of market gardens, tiny roadside villages, waterfalls, majestic mountains and, of course, tea plantations. Ambewela district is also known as the ‘milk country’; there is a dairy where you can sample cheeses and the area is littered with back-garden cattle sheds and dairy farms. Hakgala Botanical Gardens was founded in 1860 by the British botanist Dr. Thwaites, the superintendent of the Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya. Hakgala was initially used to experiment with cinchona, whose bark yielded quinine, esteemed as a tonic and a remedy for malaria. The cool, temperate climate was conducive to the introduction of temperate zone plants so cedars, cypresses and pines, English oak and a Rose garden can still be seen in the park today. Special attractions here are the mountain orchids, many of them endemic to Sri Lanka, and the Fernery. The nearby Sita Eliya Temple is believed to mark the spot where Sita, the heroine from the Indian epic Ramayana, was held captive by her abductor, King Ravana.
Horton Plains National Park
The scenery suddenly changes as you reach Horton Plains. This is the highest plateau in Sri Lanka at 2,000 metres above sea level and its wet grassland and highland forests contrast sharply with anywhere else on the island. Two of the country’s highest mountains, Kirgalpotta and Thotupola, border the park and it is the source of the mighty Kelani and Mahaweli rivers. The national park is visited mostly on foot, following a circular walking trail. At World’s End, you stand at the top of an escarpment looking down 1,000 metres to breathtaking views of the whole region. You can also walk down a steep path to the scenic Bakers Falls. Wild boar, endemic shaggy bear monkeys, lizards and tiny frogs are commonly spotted in the park and more than 70% of Sri Lanka’s endemic birds can be found here. Early morning visits are essential to enjoy the fine weather before mists close in at around 10 o’clock. The full circular walk takes around three hours if you want to take time to enjoy it all. The less energetic can walk to World’s End and back in about an hour; it is level or undulating ground but you need to be sure of foot as you are sometimes walking over uneven boulders and stones. Horton Plains National Park is about 1 hour’s drive away from Warwick Gardens along small bumpy roads, a little further from Nuwara Eliya. Day excursions are also possible from Bandarawela or Ceylon Tea Trails.
Around Bandarawela
Further to the south-east from Nuwara Eliya, surrounded by hills and tea plantations, stands the hill-station of Bandarawela, a favourite retreat of the British during colonial times to get away from the heat. Now a busy market town at an elevation of 1,230m, Bandarawela is dotted with English country style houses and sprawling gardens. Some of the best and most 'flavoured’ tea is said to come from this area. The best pears and strawberries are also grown here since the climate is mild and less humid. Bandarawela is a good base for walking and for exploring in a healthy climate, for example: Haputale Gap, Adisham Monastery, Dowa Temple Caves, tea plantations, nearby waterfalls, Ella and Ella Gap, Hakgala Botanical Gardens and even a bee-keeping centre. Adisham Monastery was built by the tea planter, Thomas Lister, and is now primarily a monastery for Benedictine monks, though also famous for its strawberry jam, orange marmalade, wild guava jelly and fresh fruit cordials. The apple and plum trees attract a host of colourful birds including orange mini-verts, green barbets and paradise flycatchers.
Waterfalls: You can stand and admire some dramatic waterfalls in the central highlands, especially during the monsoons. Rawana Falls are right by the road that drops down from Ella to the south coast, whilst Devon and St Clair Falls are clearly visible from the road between Hatton and Nuwara Eliya. Most of the waterfalls are reached on foot along paths in varying degrees of difficulty.
The highland railway: The railway that runs from Kandy to Badulla is a significant engineering feat, traversing steep valleys and hugging the mountain edge, resulting in stunningly beautiful journeys through the heart of the high tea country. It is fascinating just to watch a train stopping at one of the tiny hill stations, though travelling on just a part of the journey is an amazing experience. Tourists usually go from Kandy via Hatton to Nanu Oya, the station nearest to the famous hill town of Nuwara Eliya, as this route has a first class observation car. Nan Oya to Badulla is also very beautiful but the carriages are pretty basic. On the journey to Badulla, you go through Ambewela, then Pattipola, Sri Lanka’s highest railway station 6245 ft, via Bandarawela and Ella, after which there is a remarkable 9- arch bridge the great railway loop of Demodera. There is only one train a day and they can be unreliable so don’t count on them to get from A to B.
Places to Stay In and Around Kandy
Luxury boutique:The Kandy House – This historic Walauwa mansion is now a peaceful 8-bedroom boutique hotel set amidst mature tropical gardens in the countryside near Kandy. Theva – a romantic boutique hotel, perched on the Hantana mountainside just outside Kandy, contemporary Kandyan, artistic and designer-chic with panoramic windows.
Large mid-range hotels: Mahaweli Reach - a large, well-established hotel offering spacious, mid-range accommodation on the banks of the mighty Mahaweli River, on the outskirts of Kandy. Amaya Hills - a large 4-star mountain resort hotel, perched high above Kandy with magnificent views to the Kandy Hills.
Colonial heritage: Hotel Suisse – a venerable colonial hotel in the city of Kandy by the lake, with old-fashioned facilities, 93 rooms, high colonnades and teak floors.
A mid-range mountain resort hotel: Jetwing Hunas Falls - enjoys a beautiful mountain location by a waterfall and small lake, surrounded by nature and wildlife. It offers comfortable accommodation with a range of activities and facilities. Suitable for all ages and a great base for walkers and trekking.
Home from home: Ellerton Bungalow - a converted tea estate manager’s bungalow that welcomes guests, 45 minutes from Kandy, small, friendly and organic, in tropical surroundings. The six bedrooms are individually booked.
For Golfers: Golfers wanting to stay by the Victoria Golf Course, east of Kandy, will enjoy the luxurious mansion of Clingendael or the comfortable chalets of the Victoria Golf & Country resort (see our Active section).
Spa: Whilst all the properties offer either in-room massage or more comprehensive Ayurveda and spa treatments, Amaya Hills offers a particularly full range of therapies in its Ayurveda spa, including 3 -21 days Ayurveda programmes.
Honeymoons & Romance: The Kandy House and Jetwing Hunas Falls will be pleased to arrange especially romantic experiences to celebrate your special occasion. Weddings can be arranged at Jetwing Hubnas Falls.
Places to Stay in High Tea Country
Several tea estate bungalows have been transformed into delightful boutique hotels offering visitors a refreshingly unique experience. Amidst spectacular mountain scenery and finely contoured tea-clad slopes, you will gain an insight into a bygone colonial era as well as discovering modern-day tea plantation life. The hotels and estate bungalows that we feature will serve fine teas from the local estates, as well as from the other districts of Sri Lanka and take great pride in explaining the properties of each brew.
Luxury Tea Planters Bungalows (book individual rooms or the whole bungalow): Ceylon Tea Trails - luxurious living in a choice of four tea planters bungalows in amongst tea plantations with stunning mountain and/or lake views. The cuisine is innovative and divine – all meals and a visit to a tea factory are included. Jetwing Warwick Gardens – a grand tea planters ‘bungalow’ with two floors, chandeliers, colonial period furniture, a mini-grand piano and four-poster beds. It has its own organic vegetable garden, tea estate and farm animals. Kirchhayn Bungalow, near Bandarawela – a little simpler, lower key and further south than the others, this 1920s planter’s bungalow gives you first-hand experience of tea plantation life on the Aislaby farm and tea estate. Little England in the hill station of Nuwara Eliya: The well-established and popular Jetwing St Andrew’s Hotel has 52 comfortable bedrooms and a tea terrace, bar and restaurant (the vegetables are grown in the back garden). Close by is the homely 160-year old Scottish bungalow of Craigbank. For full immersion into British colonial heritage, step back in time at the planters’ Hill Club of Nuwara Eliya. It is still run as a private members club but does accept ‘guests’ - you can stay there in old-fashioned bedrooms or just have a lunch or formal dinner (dinner jackets and tie required).
High up in Bandarawela: At 1,230 metres above sea level, the Bandarawela Hotel sits proudly at the heart of this hill station town. Full of colonial character and preserving much of its original 1890s charm, it offers simple accommodation, a restaurant, bars and comfortable lounge and cool, fresh mountain views. A moderately priced option for exploring the highlands and walking.
Honeymoons & Romance: Jetwing Warwick Gardens can arrange especially romantic experiences to celebrate your special occasion. Weddings can be arranged at Ceylon Tea Trails and Jetwing Warwick Gardens
Climate in Kandy: The daytime temperatures in Kandy and the surrounding hills range from around 22C to 31C, with cooler evenings averaging 17C. It is fairly humid and misty in the evenings with short outbursts of rain. Heavier rainfalls occur during the south-west monsoon from May to August.
Climate in the High Tea Country: At an elevation of above 4,000 feet the climate is cooler and less humid with cool mornings, warm days and cool evenings. Daytime temperatures are in the low to mid 20s Celsius and at nights can drop to around 10 degrees Celsius. The driest part of the year is between December and April, and September is normally quite dry. The rainy season is May, June and July, and October and November due to the north-east, south-west and intermediate monsoons, and July is generally the coldest month. February and March are usually dry and around 20 degrees Celsius. Micro-climates exist from valley to valley. The weather at Warwick Gardens, for example, is around 16C at night and can reach 26C during the day, whilst the temperature at Bandarawela goes from 12C to 20C.
Festivals and Events
Kandy Esala Perahera Festival - July or August (depending on the date of the Esala full moon). This spectacular cultural pageant is held over 10 days with the processions and celebrations getting more elaborate and longer each day. Although in ancient times this was a procession to honour Hindu gods, during the reign of King Rajasinghe it was decreed that the procession should be in honour the sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha. Each night, dancers, drummers, flute players, whip-crackers and elephants form a procession around the streets and Kandy lake. The ornately decorated elephants increase daily in number to 100 on the last night, the finest of them being the Maligawa Tusker which carries the Sacred Tooth Relic, led by the Chiefs of the Temple in traditional silver and gold ceremonial dress.
The Nuwara Eliya season – April to June. Horse racing in High Tea Country (trotting) in January, February, April, August and December .
Bandarawela Perahera on full moon day in June.
Getting out and about
Getting Out and About in Kandy
There are plentiful cultural and active options in and around Kandy: Temple of the Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha and the Royal palaces of Kandy; Kandy market; Kandy area – handicrafts villages and workshops – brass, musical instruments, basket weaving, batik, painting; Kandy evening cultural show; Kandy Esala Perahera Festival (July/August); Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage; Peradeniya Botanical Gardens; Mahaweli River and Victoria Dam; Tea estates; Drive to Nuwara Eliya and around the tea plantations, visiting a tea factory; Hantana mountain and Hantana tea plantations - walks and museum; Buddhist sites near Kandy – Gadaladeniya, Hindagala Vihara, Embekke Divale, Lankatilake; Mahiyangana – Rajamaha dagoba; Aluvihara Buddhist temple; Aluvihara Heritage Centre (Ena de Silva batik art and workshop and sri lankan rice & curry lunch); Knuckles Mountain Range - scenic drives and walking; Rubber plantations; Spice farms; Rail journey to Tea Country; Relaxing in the lush tropical hills; Treat your body, mind and soul to a programme of Ayurvedic massage and herbal treatments; Golf at the Victoria Golf course; Riding at Victoria Saddle Club; Walking and trekking; Cycling; White water rafting at Kitulgala.
Getting Out and About in the High Tea Country
Visit a tea factory and tea estate and leisurely walks; Visit Nuwara Eliya, Little England (market, Cargill’s, Hill Club, Golf club, Post Office, Race course); Hakgala Botanical Gardens; Scenic Railway journeys and drives; Gushing Waterfalls e.g. Devon Falls, St Clair Falls, Bambarakanda, Diyaluna; Bandarawela hill station, Ella and Ella Gap - scenic views; Haputale Gap, Adisham monastery and Lipton’s Seat; Dowa Cave Temple, murals and rock-cut Buddha Statue dating back to the 8th century; Badulla and the Bogoda wooden bridge; Day excursions to Kandy – Temple of theTooth Relic, Peradeniya Botanical Gardens; En route to the south-east when you have dropped onto the plains:
Buduruvagala, the tallest rock-cut Buddha Statue (51ft) and 6 other Mahayana Statues dating back to 8th Century. Walking and treks amidst tea plantations, mountains and waterfalls; Mountain biking; Horton Plains – walk in the National Park to World’s End and Bakers Falls (a 2 to 3 hours early morning walk); Golf at Nuwara Eliya Golf Club; Ascent of Adam’s Peak, the sacred Sri Pada mountain and multi-faith pilgrimage shrine; White water rafting in Kitulgala (Approx. 1 hour drive from Ceylon Tea Trails, longer from elsewhere).
DRIVING DISTANCES: Colombo International Airport (100 kms) or Colombo (115 kms) to Kandy – 3.5 to 4 hours, Kandy to Nuwara Eliya – 2.5 hours (77 kms), Kandy to Sigiriya – 3 hours (90 kms), Kandy to Galle – 6 hours (230 kms), Kandy to Wadduwa – 4 hours (150 kms), Colombo International Airport to Nuwara Eliya – 5 hours (170 kms), Colombo International Airport to Dickoya – 4.5 hours (160 kms), Kandy to Nuwara Eliya – 2.5 hours (77 kms), Nuwara Eliya to Tangalle – 6 hours (210 kms), Nuwara Eliya to Galle – 8 hours (290 kms), Nuwara Eliya to Bentota – 7 hours (240 kms), Nuwara Eliya to Bandarawela - 1.5 to 2 hours, 47 kms, Nuwara Eliya to Colombo – 5 to 6 hours (180 kms)