Travel back 2,500 years in time and unravel the historical tapestry of the Cultural Triangle. A melting pot of heritage, culture and wildlife. The ‘Cultural Triangle’ in the central dry zone of Sri Lanka, is home to a wealth of UNESCO world heritage sites and beautiful landscapes, still rich in wildlife and natural habitats. Many visitors spend a day or two whizzing around the cultural sites as part of a touring holiday around Sri Lanka, yet we think this area is so fantastic that it can also merit a week’s stay, discovering the culture and enjoying the natural environment. The people lead a largely agrarian life often centring round rice cultivation. In the 5th century BC, the migrants from North India (later to be called the Sinhalese) introduced the cultivation of wet paddies alongside river settlements and elaborate irrigation systems followed. Today’s landscape on these flat, dry, red earth plains is dotted with vast tracts of water - fields of rice paddies and water lilies and the ancient reservoirs known as ‘tanks’ - interspersed with forests and smallholdings, solitary rock mountains, temples and villages. Wild elephants are often sighted inside (and sometimes outside) the national parks, whilst monkeys swamp hens, cormorants and mynah birds are commonly seen. This area is considered to be the cradle of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist civilisation as we know it today. It is also the epicentre of Sri Lankan Ayurveda, the science centrifugal to a healthy life – if you want to find a really authentic, traditional Ayurvedic doctor, this is the place to be.
Local highlights
Sri Lanka boasts a phenomenal eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, four of which are in what is popularly known as the Cultural Triangle. Between them they tell a fascinating story of Sri Lanka’s civilisation. Sigiriya: The 5th century Sigiriya Rock Fortress, is one of the island's most awe-inspiring archaeological sites and its prime tourist attraction. It is also known as Lion Rock because of the huge lion that used to stand at the entrance to the Palace on the summit of the 600-foot high rock. For just two decades in the 5th century AD, Kashyapa set up his capital at Sigiriya, part hedonistic pleasure palace, part fortress and part sacred. His creation was a remarkable feat of engineering and a true work of art. To fully appreciate Sigiriya, it is worth climbing up the steep, and sometimes narrow, steps that take you up one side of the rock to reach the summit. At the top, there are majestic views of the surrounding jungle and the foundations of a Royal Palace, with water tanks that supplied water to all the other buildings. On one of the stairways part-way up the rock, the only known ancient work of Sinhala secular painting survives in the form of frescoes of 21 life sized damsels (believed to be the king’s concubines), still shining in their original colours. The palace complex at the foot of the rock still has the remains of four indoor swimming pools where the king’s 500 concubines bathed. You can stroll through the ruins of palace and gardens down below and admire the rock without climbing up all the steps. Cave temples of Dambulla: Hewn into a 160m granite outcrop are the remarkable cave temples of Dambulla. Used as a refuge since the 1st century BC, notably by King Walagamba after defeat in Anuradhapura, each cave is filled with murals depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life and gilded statues of the Buddha in various poses. The temple is spiritual and mesmerising with no less than 150 Buddhist statues in the five caves. Cave 2, the Maharaja Vihara, is the largest and most spectacular. This visit involves a 10-15 minute uphill climb on foot, though you are also rewarded with wonderful views looking over the plain.Mediaeval capital of Polonnaruwa: In the 12th century AD, the capital of Polonnaruwa was one of the great urban centres in South Asia. It tells a story of Buddhism, royalty, kinship, war and power. Today, the well preserved ruins give you the chance to experience the grandeur of this period and marvel at the artistry of the island's early craftsmen. Highlights are the Royal Palace and Council Chamber, and the four graceful Buddha statues of Gal Vihara (Stone Temple), the pinnacle of Sri Lankan rock carving. The site also hosts the Royal baths and the vast artificial Parakrama Samudraya reservoir (Sea of Parakrama) as well as many distinctly South Indian-style Hindu temples. Set amongst gently undulating woodland, the monkeys, giant lizards and birdlife in abundance, Polonnaruwa’s historical site is visited using a combination of driving and on foot; or else hire a bike and cycle around (best visited early morning or late afternoon because this is the dry zone).
The sacred city of Anuradhapura: The ancient city of Anuradhapura is a vast ancient archaeological site of palaces, monasteries, temples and dagobas, mostly in ruins though some have been restored. This was once one of the grandest monastic cities the world has ever seen, established in the 4th century BC then rising to become the major centre for Buddhist pilgrimage and learning in Sri Lanka. It is home to the 2,300-year-old sacred bo tree, the Sri Maha Bodhiya, which was brought by Sangamitha Theri as a sapling from the bo tree in India under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The great kings of Anuradhapura oversaw a golden age in the island's history, building colossal dagobas that rivalled the pyramids of Egypt in scale, and developing a sophisticated irrigation system consisting of vast reservoirs and canals scattered across a 250 square kilometre area that are still in use today. The Jethawanaramaya Stupa is one of the largest ancient monuments in the world, a remarkable feat of engineering. Anuradhapura eventually fell into decline in the 10th century AD, enduring frequent invasions from India. A thriving town has grown up next to the ancient site and both remain an important centre for Buddhism, welcoming pilgrims and monks throughout the year, especially at full moon festivals. Due to the vast scale of the ancient city and the hot weather, people usually drive to the various sites, maybe walking between a few of them. You can hire bicycles to cycle around, best done in the early morning and late afternoon. Mihintale Sanctuary: Clearly visible sitting on ‘the hill of Mahinda’, 8 km from Anuradhapura, lies Mihintale sanctuary. Known as the ‘cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka’, it was here that the Buddhist doctrine was first preached by the monk Mahinda, son of Asoka, Emperor of India, to King Devanampiyatissa more than 2,000 years ago. Mihintale has been a sanctuary since 247 BC and some of the Brahmi inscriptions found here date back to 3 BC. It is approached by a magnificent, wide, ancient stone stairway of 1,840 steps. Ritigala: There are numerous other places of cultural interest in the Cultural Triangle, including Ritigala - the ruins of a 9th century monastery, hidden away in dense forest on a mountainside. These intriguing remains include a reservoir wall, hospital, banqueting hall for the monks, library and ordination hall. The visit is on foot, up hill, along paths occasionally overgrown with vegetation.
Minneriya National Park: This park offers the best chance of seeing elephants in the wild, particularly on the water’s edge of Minneriya tank, an ancient reservoir built by King Mahasen 1,500 years ago. Visitors are also likely to see spotted deer, wild buffalo, wild boar, crocodiles, sambur, water birds, and peacocks within the park. There have been rare sightings of leopards and sloth bear. Asian elephants are renowned as highly social animals and their ‘tank gatherings’ demonstrate their complex group dynamics in action. At Minneriya, between July and October, you can witness the phenomenon of 100, even up to 300, elephants gathering in the late afternoon around the tank. Wildlife safaris by jeep can be arranged to Minneriya National Park during most months of the year (it is on the road to Polonnaruwa). A little further to the north-east is Kaudulla National Park, established in 2002, which supports a large herd of elephants and a range of wildlife similar to those found in Minneriya.
Places to Stay in the Cultural Triangle: We have carefully selected properties that we believe to be the best at what they do. They all enjoy tranquil and beautiful rural settings. Jetwing Vil Uyana (Near Sigiriya) and Ulagalla Resort (near Anuradhapura) are luxury boutique hotels set in extensive grounds amongst rice paddies and lakes, where accommodation is in individual villas elevated on pillars above water or ground. The boutique Elephant Corridor offers luxurious suite living, with private indoor or outdoor plunge pool, terraces and art easels, set in acres of scrub jungle. For something completely different, the Heritance Kandalama is a unique 152-bedroomed eco-resort hotel that manages to merge and live at one with the natural landscape, a masterpiece of the Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. The Deer Park Hotel offers comfortable accommodation and facilities, situated by an ancient ‘tank’ reservoir, handy for visiting Polonnaruwa, the eastern most site of the Cultural Triangle. For excellent ‘no-frills’ hospitality, near Sigiriya, we have chosen Kassapa Lions Rock hotel for its charming atmosphere and comfortable, air-conditioned chalets with semi open-air bathrooms.
Around Dambulla/Sigiriya: Jetwing Vil Uyana, Heritance Kandalama, Elephant Corridor, Kassapa Lions Rock. Near Polonnaruwa: Deer Park Hotel Near Anuradhapura: Ulagalla Resort.
Festivals and Events
The Buddhist festivals – monthly on Poya (full moon) days, especially Vesak (May) and Poson (June). Poson marks the introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka by Arahat Maha Mahinda, son of Asoka of India at Mihintale in 3rd century BC. July to October – the Elephant Gathering: during this season in the evenings, hundreds of wild elephants gather along the banks of the Minneriya Tank.
Heritage and Nature in Depth Itinerary: For those who love heritage and nature, it is worth spending more than a couple of days in this remarkable region of Sri Lanka. Here is a suggested 7-night holiday devoted to the Cultural Triangle:
Stay 3 nights in the Sigiriya area, visiting Dambulla Temple and Sigiriya rock fortress. Go on a cycle ride and/or nature walk. Observe local life and the market in Dambulla. Relax with a soothing Ayurveda treatment and laze by the pool at the hotel. Then move on to the Deer Park Hotel for 2 nights, dedicating one day to visiting Polonnaruwa by car and/or bike and spending a morning and/or afternoon on a wildlife safari in Minneriya National Park. Finally, stay 2 or 3 nights at Ulagalla Resort perhaps stopping at a sacred Buddhist temple or site on the way such as Ritigala or Aukana. Visit Anuradhapura and Mihintale, observe paddy cultivation and enjoy the activities available at the resort hotel (horse-riding, canoeing on the lake, archery). Continue to Kandy to visit the Temple of the Lord Buddha Tooth Relic and the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens.
Climate: As the climate is very hot, with an average temperature of 30C, it is best to do sightseeing and activities in the early mornings and late afternoons, with time to relax at the hotel, eat or travel in air-conditioning at the height of the day. Average humidity is 60%, with very little rainfall most of the year - most of the rain falls between November and February when the North-east monsoon prevails.
Getting out and about
The Cultural Triangle has a wealth of highlights including: Sigiriya Rock Fortress; Dambulla Cave Temples; Polonnaruwa – ruins of the ancient capital; Anuradhapura – sacred city; Wildlife safari in Minneriya National Park (or Kaudulla National Park); Elephant rides/treks; Birdwatching on the ‘tanks’; Hot air balloon ride; Cycle ride – local village life; Ayurveda health treatments, massages, herbal steam beds and aromatic baths; Ritigala monastery ruins (walking required); Aukana Buddha; Mihintale; The story of Buddhism; The story of Ayurveda. Day trip or continue to Kandy, visiting spice gardens, batik workshops, Temple of the Tooth, Kandy market, city centre, view from hills, workshops for woodcarving, brass and musical instruments.
Driving Distances: Colombo to Sigiriya – (170 km) 4 hours, International Airport to Sigiriya – (153 km) 4 hours, Dambulla to Sigiriya – (24 km) 30 minutes, Dambulla to Polonnaruwa (70 km) 2 hours
Polonnaruwa to Anuradhapura – (100 km) 2.5 hours, Sigiriya to Anuradhapura – (82 km) 2 hours, International Airport to Anuradhapura – (170 km) 4.5 hours, Sigiriya to Kandy – (92 km) 2.5 hours.