Colombo has gradually grown from humble beginnings as a tiny 5th century trading post for gems to become Sri Lanka’s largest city and its most important port. The island’s commercial capital is a hectic mix of old and new, colonial architecture sitting next to modern glass and tree-lined residential suburbs bordered by shacks. Nifty 3-wheelers and the occasional bullock cart vie with noisy buses and 4-wheel drives for supremacy on the streets. To the north is Fort, a business area with shops and offices and touches of residual colonial charm. The fort, which gave the district its name, has long since gone, though the Lighthouse Clock Tower in North Chatham Street and the 18th century ‘Queen’s House’, now the president’s official residence, still exist. To the south is Galle Face Green, a sea-front expanse of green lawn beside an esplanade, used to host race meetings and sports events. It is a popular gathering place, especially for kite-flying or a sunset stroll. At its south end stands the colonial Galle Face Hotel which was built in 1864. Further south is Cinnamon Gardens, the city’s most fashionable neighbourhood with tree-lined streets and colonial mansions. A small national art gallery borders the pleasant Viharamahadevi Park. The National Museum, on Albert Crescent, has a collection ranging from religious bronzes (illustrating the overlap of Buddhist and Hindu deities) and a room with the crown, throne and footstool of the last Kandyan kings. All around the city, Buddhist temples, Hindu Kovils, mosques and churches give a glimpse into the spiritual vibrancy of Sri Lankan life, especially during religious festivals. Gangaramaya Buddhist temple, in particular, is fascinating for any visitor, as well as the Hindu Temple at Sea Street which is lined with goldsmith's shops, the Dutch Church at Wolfendal, dating back to 1749 and the historic Davatagaha Mosque. Colombo also offers some excellent shopping opportunities: the lively Pettah Bazaar competes with shopping malls and fashion stores and you can buy anything from gems to cricket bats. Stores such as Barefoot, Paradise Road, Gandhara and Odel have a designer-chic range of home ware, fabrics, arts & crafts and clothes.
Local highlights
Places to Stay in Colombo: The Regency at the Galle Face Hotel - a splendid colonial hotel on the seafront in central Colombo that has been a prominent feature of the city’s life since 1864; for modern comforts we recommend its Regency wing. Park Street and Tintagel – these two wonderful boutique hotels are located in central residential districts, both with restaurants frequented by Colombo’s well-to-do. Park Street Hotel has been stylishly converted from a 250 year-old residence, whilst Tintagel blends colonial architecture with the chic interiors of Paradise Road in what was once the home of a Sri Lankan President. Havelock Place Bungalow - a homely guest house in a leafy residential quarter further south. Mount Lavinia - in the southern suburbs, the colonial Mount Lavinia hotel commands a fine position on a promontory overlooking sandy beaches and sea. This former British Governor’s residence has fairly standard rooms but offers a characterful beach resort experience near Colombo.
Festivals and Events:
February: Navam Perahera - a 3-day pageant ending on Poya day (full moon), with dance troupes and decorated elephants, at Gangaramaya temple and along neighbouring streets.
Climate: Colombo has an average temperature of 27C, often reaching above 30C during the day, slightly cooler in the evenings and during the monsoon season (May to August). It is hot and sticky, less so on the seafront with the sea breezes.
Getting out and about
There are plenty of options for things to do in the capital: Shopping – fashion, jewellery, art, Sri Lankan arts and crafts, trendy homeware and clothes; Golf at Royal Colombo golf course; National Museum; Variety of restaurants; Afternoon tea or cocktails on the Ocean terrace of the Galle Face Hotel; Walking along the seafront at Galle Face Green; Pettah Bazaar; Buddhist temples (Gangaramaya, Bellanwilla); Colourful Hindu Kovils (Sri Subramaniam and Kailawasanthan Swamidevasthanam, the oldest); Dutch period museum; Near Colombo – Kelaniya Raja Maha Temple; Nightclubs and musical entertainment e.g. jazz, Asian pop bands, calypso, (mainly in the hotels).
Driving Distances: Colombo to Colombo International airport: 1 hour
Colombo to Bentota: 2 hours, Colombo to Galle: 2 hours, Colombo to Kandy: 3.5 hours, Colombo to Dambulla: 4 hours.